Copenhagen in March: Freezing, Fabulous, and Full of Unexpected Life Lessons

So, picture this: we land in Copenhagen, hyped for a European adventure of bike rides, delicious pastries, and all that legendary Danish hygge…and we get slapped with sleet. Like, actual horizontal sleet—wind howling, faces frozen, and our hands buried deep in the suitcases (because why would we have thought to put on our gloves before leaving the airport?). But hey, as they say, “Welcome to Copenhagen in March. It’s bloody Baltic!”
If you want to test a friendship or, say, your tolerance for severe weather, plan a trip to Copenhagen just before spring decides to show up. Word of advice, though: if you’re considering a late winter, just about spring, trip to Copenhagen, know this word: Baltic. There’s an actual slang word to describe just how bitterly cold it gets—seems like an omen in itself. March in Copenhagen is not for the faint of heart, or at least not for those expecting mild breezes and eating al fresco. At 30 degrees with winds threatening to take you and your suitcase down, every step felt like Mother Nature saying, “Welcome to Denmark. I hope you brought your scarf.” Which we didn’t!?! Sigh.
For anyone who knows us—especially Ashlee—it’s no surprise that we had every minute of this trip meticulously mapped out, complete with laminated copies of our itinerary (yes, copies). But when we arrived, our enthusiasm froze as quickly as our fingers. Our dream of biking through Copenhagen’s scenic streets, inspired by those spring sun-drenched Instagram shots of locals cycling along the river, was no match for the Baltic winds and icy weather. That carefully crafted itinerary? Straight out the window! Instead, we embraced the unexpected and discovered the adventure of letting go, promising ourselves that next time, we’ll return helmet-ready for a thawed-out summer Copenhagen.
But we were in Copenhagen! And the weather wasn’t going to stop us from exploring this incredible city—we just had to get a little creative. Armed with new scarves and metro cards, we braved the chill and dove into everything Copenhagen had to offer. From stumbling into bookstores filled with Danish books (some in English) to navigating the food halls at Torvehallerne Market, we found that some of our best experiences came from not knowing exactly where we were going. Copenhagen’s streets, lined with artsy graffiti and filled with impromptu café stops, gave us an unfiltered look into the city’s creative heartbeat. Not to mention The Observatory, where we climbed old stairs for the best view of the city—a misty, chilly rooftop view that made the cold a little more poetic.
You know that sinking feeling of stepping into a restaurant you booked because of rave reviews, only to be hit with a menu that makes you question every decision you’ve ever made? Enter II Buco—or as we now call it, “Italian with a twist.” Starving for comfort food, we imagined plates of pasta but found ourselves staring down dishes like “duck ragu” and “salt-baked pumpkin.” Cue immediate disappointment. It was one of those memorable (if traumatic) travel moments we’ll be telling our future selves to laugh about. The highlight? Stumbling upon a burger joint on the way back to the hotel that saved the night, as well as our stomachs.
And to make it even better, around the corner was the coolest blues bar– Mojo Blues Bar. We love a good unplanned stumble that turned into a night of live blues, conversations with locals, and one awkwardly brave phone number exchange with a Swede. The best plans, as we learned, are sometimes the ones we never actually make!
Copenhagen’s ultimate redeeming quality when it’s cold? Hygge. When the sleet finally let up, we discovered Europa, a café where blankets are handed out like tickets to stay warm, and people-watching turns into an art form. Sitting outside, wrapped in wool with champagne and coffee, made everything feel warmer, softer—even poetic. Despite the chill, the Danes know how to create warmth and make every moment cozy, with heated chairs, outdoor heat lamps, and a generous pour of wine. This was more than wine and people watching; it was therapy.
Copenhagen is a city of contrasts. It was cold, raw, beautiful, and vibrant—kind of like life itself. It’s where people bundle up to sip wine outdoors and brave frozen streets on bikes, all while exuding a quiet resilience. There’s something humbling about being somewhere so perfectly imperfect from your plan.
Copenhagen reminded us that sometimes the best experiences aren’t found on laminated itineraries. They’re the unplanned stops, the cafes that serve delicious coffee and pastries, and the little bookstores with nothing you can read (but everything you need).
So here’s to Copenhagen, March winds, and the unexpected beauty of freezing our fingers off—because travel, much like life, is often better when it’s unscripted. Cheers to the sleet, the serendipity, and the city that taught us to let go of the itinerary and lean into the unknown.