Winding Roads, Ancestral Threads, and the Pull of Romania
I’ve always felt pulled toward Eastern Europe—gritty, bohemian, full of layers. Finding out my great-grandmother came to the U.S. from Romania at 17 only deepened that connection. Getting there was pretty straightforward: Chicago to Bucharest with a quick jog through customs in Vienna. I landed, grabbed an Uber, and met my husband at The Marmorosch—an Old Town hotel that used to be a bank and now serves cocktails in a literal vault. Fancy, moody, and completely my vibe.
First rule of jet lag? Don’t nap. Just force yourself into the local time zone and get outside. Bucharest in mid-September? 70s and sunny—basically the universe cheering me on.
I kicked things off with a walking tour (my favorite way to meet a city), and it didn’t disappoint. The guide crammed centuries of history into a few short hours, and Bucharest—messy, resilient, complex—started to unfold. One stop that really stuck with me? The Palace of Parliament. It’s enormous—like hard to even comprehend enormous—and its backstory is as heavy as its architecture. It’s a sobering reminder of Romania’s past, and an absolute must if you want to understand where this city’s been.
One day, I walked to the Dimitrie Gusti National Village Museum—a massive open-air ethnographic museum in a park. They’ve relocated traditional homes from across Romania to recreate entire villages. You can walk through houses, churches, and even farms, getting a glimpse of life from the 17th to 20th centuries. It’s one of the coolest “living museums” I’ve ever seen.
Coffee, Crepes and Culture
If you know me, you know coffee is life. Origio Cafe in Bucharest is where I had one of the best lattes ever. The cafe is adorable, with coffee cups hanging from the ceiling, and it’s perfect for people-watching. One morning, I picked up an English book from a cute bookstore and spent hours reading with my latte, soaking in the city’s vibe. Speaking of treats, there’s this little blue crepe truck in Old Town called Cărturești. Picture fairy lights and Nutella-strawberry goodness—it’s not Paris, but it’s delicious.
Another favorite? Caru’ cu Bere, an iconic restaurant in Bucharest. It’s like stepping back in time, with stained glass windows, wood staircases, and a menu filled with traditional Romanian dishes. Try the mici (sausage) and save room for papanasi, a donut-meets-cake dessert. Trust me, you’ll leave happy.
Castles, Cobblestones, and the Road to Dracula
After a few days in Bucharest, we traded Ubers for a rental car and hit the road toward Brașov—my great-grandmother’s hometown and the unofficial gateway to Transylvania. Pro tip: driving in Romania is not for the faint of heart. Bucharest traffic is aggressive, lane lines are more of a suggestion, and most cars are manual. But once we escaped the city, the countryside unfolded like something out of a fairytale—rolling hills, tiny villages, and those misty Carpathian peaks that sneak up on you. We stopped at Cantacuzino Castle (aka Nevermore Academy from Netflix’s Wednesday), where the real magic wasn’t inside but in the view—crisp mountain air, a dreamy terrace cafe, and the kind of silence that makes you slow down and breathe.
Brașov itself is pure charm: cobblestone streets, pastel buildings, and a Hollywood-style “Brașov” sign up in the hills. We tucked into Juno Wine Bar for the evening—massive wine barrels turned into booths, twinkle lights, and live music floating into the night. It was the kind of place you accidentally stay for hours.
And of course… Dracula. Just outside Brașov sits Bran Castle, perched on a ridge like it’s waiting for fog to roll in. The fortress is moody and rugged, full of winding staircases and whispered history. But the real surprise was the medieval festival happening across the street—locals in traditional dress, booths selling raw meat and pastries, live music, and donkeys meandering through the crowd. It was wildly unexpected, and completely unforgettable.
A Sip Worth Remembering
If you go to Romania and don’t try Chateau Purcari’s 1827 wine… did you even go? Nearly every local we met insisted we try it, and after one glass, we totally got the hype. Smooth, rich, and endlessly sippable—it’s the kind of wine that makes you pause mid-conversation and say, “Wait… what is this?” Technically Moldovan, but beloved across Romania, it became our go-to for toasting sunsets, winding down evenings, and dreaming about never leaving.
Romania surprised us in all the best ways. It was raw and beautiful, moody and magnetic. From tangled mountain roads to medieval festivals, latte mornings to castle views—this trip felt like a quiet unraveling of something familiar and brand new at the same time. If it’s not already on your list, it should be.
Tried the wine? Explored the castles? Almost adopted a festival donkey? We want to hear everything. Drop your favorite Romanian memories—or your dream plans—in the comments. Let’s swap stories.